earticle

영어

This article examines the Manila shawl (mantón de Manila) as a semiotic object in motion, whose trajectory—from Chinese silk to contemporary Spanish fashion—offers insights into processes of cultural hybridization, early globalization, and identity re-signification. Through a historical and semiotic analysis, it highlights how the material transformations of the shawl (embroidery, colors, fringes, uses) correspond to shifts in its symbolic value: from colonial exoticism to national myth, from festive accessory to costumbrista emblem, and from traditional garment to a key resource within the cultural and fashion industries. The study also includes contemporary examples (Juana Martín, Palomo Spain, Rosalía, Queen Letizia), showing how the shawl articulates tradition and modernity, authenticity and market, nationalism and cosmopolitanism. In conclusion, the Manila shawl is not only a hybrid object but also a sign in constant re-signification, a cultural “super-iconeme” that condenses collective imaginaries while maintaining its relevance in the 21st century.