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화장품 미용분야에서 베이직 폴리머의 유변학적 특성을 사용한 제형 개발에 대한 제언

원문정보

Suggestion for the Development of Formulations Using the Rheological Characteristics of Basic Polymers in Cosmetic Beauty Fields

구태규, 김인영

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초록

영어

As a study on the suggestion for the development of formulations using rheological properties of basic polymers in the cosmetic beauty field, the results of visco-elasticity measurement using five representative polymer raw materials, Xanth Gum, Pemulen TR-1, Carbopol 981, Amigel R, and Na-Hyaluronate, were reported. The pH value obtained by dissolving the five types of polymers in 0.5-1.0w% was 5.8-6.0. The appearance was all transparent gel and each had its own specific odor. The viscosity was measured for a sample in which a concentration of 1 wt% of five types of polymers was dissolved in purified water, and as the concentration of polymer increased, the viscosity increased, and as the sensitivity of use increased, the stickiness increased. As a result of measuring the rheological properties of polymers, it was found that the initial viscosity showed a difference in viscosity in the order of Pemulen TR-1 > Carbopol 981 > Xanthan Gum > Amigel R > Na-Hyaluronate. It was found that the four types of polymers except Na-Hyaluranate were greatly affected by the speed of share. In the case of Carbopol 981, MIU had the lowest friction coefficient of 1.3358, indicating that the smoothness was the best in the relationship between measuring the friction coefficient of polymers and the development of cosmetic formulations. In addition, for Pemulene TR-1, Xanth Gum, Amigel R, and Na-Hyaluronate, it had a slight coefficient of friction from 1.5883 to 2.061. The thixotropy measurement results of the polymer using a rheometer showed that the stress(t) value also increased as the share rate increased, and it was found that Pemulen TR-1 had a higher sensitivity to shear rate than Xanthan Gum. In the dynamic strain sweep test using a rheometer, G' (storage modulus) and G" (loss modulus) could be used as important indicators of the viscoelastic properties of the sample. G' can interpret the properties of elastic components, and G' can evaluate the properties of viscous components. Based on these characteristics, if applied to the development of new formulations, it is expected to be widely applied to the K-Beauty cosmetics industry in the 21st century. In the future, it is expected that this rheology rheological behavior will be expanded to areas with high value for convergence with sensory evaluation of use.

목차

Abstract
Ⅰ. 서 론
Ⅱ. 이론적 배경
Ⅲ. 시약 및 장치
1. 시약
2. 장치
Ⅳ. 실험방법
1. 폴리머의 분산 용해법
2. 마찰력 측정법
3. 레올로지적 거동 측정법
Ⅴ. 결과 및 고찰
1. 폴리머류의 특성과 점도 변화
2. 폴리머류의 레올로지 유변학적 특성
3. 폴리머류의 마찰계수 측정과 화장품 제형 개발의연관성
4. 레오미터를 이용한 틱소트로피 측정결과
5. 레오미터를 이용한 동적변형률 스윕시험에서G’와 G” 측정
Ⅵ. 결론
References

저자정보

  • 구태규 Ku Tae-Kyu. 광운대 경영대학원 인그리에뷰티융합전공, 교수
  • 김인영 Kim In-Young. (주)바이오뷰텍 기술연구소 신소재개발부, 연구총괄대표이사

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