earticle

영어

Collagen, the most abundant and ubiquitous fibrous protein in animals, is the main architectural element of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and constitutes a large portion of connective tissue proper, skin, tendon, cartilage and bone. Collagen provides skin with tensile strength, attachment sites for skin cells, elasticity and hydration, helping maintain mechanical stability or regeneration of skin. The importance of collagen is increasingly recognized as a key source of biomaterials for cosmetics. Commercial collagen has been traditionally extracted mainly from terrestrial mammals such as cattle and pigs. However, recently, marine collagen has attracted much attention, as a mammalian collagen substitute, from biomedical researchers to the cosmetic, food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and biomedical industries, especially because of its easy extractability, water-solubility, safety, better chemical and physical durability, and wide availability. Thus, marine collagen is now become a valuable and widely used component in cosmetic formulation due to its significant beneficial effects on human skin. Collagens are usually extracted by acid and pepsin. Its popularity in cosmetology and dermatology is primarily associated with proven ability to enhance skin hydration and elasticity, and exhibit anti-skin aging activity. Moreover, marine collagen also has the potent antioxidant properties, thereby protecting skin cells against oxidative stress caused by free radicals and ultraviolet radiation on the skin. This study reviews literature on the skin care properties of marine collagen and its sources, extraction methods, types, structural modification, and fabrication methods for cosmetic applications.

중국어

胶原蛋白作为动物体内含量最丰富的纤维性蛋白质，既是细胞外壁基层的主要构成物质，也是构成固有结缔组织、皮肤、筋 条、软骨、骨头的成分。胶原蛋白可以维持皮肤张力，通过给皮肤细胞附着部位提供韧性和水分，起到支撑皮肤的作用。不仅如 此，胶原蛋白还具有保持皮肤功能、修复及再生功效。随着胶原蛋白的重要性日益凸显，逐渐成为化妆品的核心材料。长期以 来，工业领域的胶原蛋白主要来自牛和猪等陆地哺乳动物，但由于近期从海洋生物中提取的海洋胶原蛋白具有提取方便、获取容 易、水溶性、耐用性以及安全性等优点，因此作为哺乳动物胶原蛋白的取代品，海洋胶原蛋白受到医学生命科学研究、化妆品、 食品、健康食品、制药、生物医学产业等各领域的广泛关注。尤其，海洋胶原蛋白在改善皮肤方面具有显著的效果，因此成为广 泛应用于各类化妆品剂型的重要材料。胶原蛋白一般是从酸和胃蛋白酶中提取，主要功效有保湿、增加弹性、防止皮肤老化，所 以深得美容学以及皮肤学研究领域的青睐。另外，海洋胶原蛋白具有很强的抗氧化作用，可以让皮肤免受紫外线以及活性氧的氧 化损伤，从而保护皮肤细胞。因此本研究聚焦皮肤美容领域，主要考察海洋胶原蛋白的功效、特点、供应源、提取方法、类型、 结构变形以及化妆品应用领域的制造方法等。