earticle

영어

Purpose: To determine the anti-oxidant, whitening, anti-inflammatory and collagen synthesis effects of Aronia melanocarpa (A. melanocarpa) leaf extracts for use as cosmetic ingredients. Methods: Ethanol and hot water leaf extracts of A. melanocarpa were used as test samples. Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of the leaf extracts were quantified. The anti-oxidant activity of leaf extracts was measured using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. The whitening effect of leaf extracts was measured in the mouse melanoma cell line B16F10. The inhibitory effect of leaf extracts on the production of nitric oxide (NO) was measured using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 mouse macrophages. The amount of procollagen synthesized with and without leaf extracts was measured in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) using ELISA. Results: The total polyphenol contents in the ethanol and hot water leaf extracts of A. melanocarpa were 167.46±1.03 μg/mL and 79.04±1.01 μg/mL, respectively, and the total flavonoid contents were 105.15±1.22 μg/mL and 52.21±1.13 μg/mL, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging effect of ethanol extracts was higher than that of hot water extracts. In the mouse melanoma cell line B16F10, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity and melanin inhibition rate using 100 μg/mL ethanol extracts and 100 μg/mL hot water extracts were 21% and 24%, 18% and 18%, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity and melanin inhibition induced by α-melanocytestimulating hormone (α-MSH) were higher in ethanol extracts than in hot water extracts. The anti-inflammatory effect of ethanol extracts, measured as the inhibition of NO production in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 mouse macrophages, was higher than that of hot water extracts. Procollagen synthesis was lower than the positive control group due to the respective 58% and 41% increases in procollagen synthesis with the concentration of 200 μg/mL. Conclusion: Data showed that A. melanocarpa leaf extracts isolated using ethanol exhibited higher anti-oxidant, whitening, antiinflammatory, and collagen synthesis effects than those isolated using hot water. Thus, ethanol leaf extracts can be considered as a candidate for use as ingredients in cosmetic products.

한국어

목적: 아로니아 잎 추출물의 화장품 기능성 소재로서 활용 가능성을 알아보기 위하여 항산화, 미백, 항염증, collagen 합성량을 측 정하였다. 방법: 아로니아 잎을 에탄올, 열수 추출하여 시료로 사용하였다. 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) 소거능과 총 폴리페놀 함량, 총 플라보노이드 함량을 측정하였으며, B16F10 mouse melanoma 세포주를 사용하여 미백효과를 측정하였다. 마 우스의 RAW 264.7 대식세포에 lipopolysaccharide (LPS)를 처리하여 nitric oxide (NO) 억제 효과를 확인 하였으며, human dermal fibroblast (HDF)에서 ELISA kit를 이용하여 procollagen 합성량을 측정하였다. 결과: 아로니아 잎 에탄올, 열수 추출물의 총 폴리페 놀 함량은 167.46±1.03, 79.04±1.01 μg/mL으로 확인되었으며, 총 플라보노이드 함량은 105.15±1.22, 52.21±1.13 μg/mL로 나타났다. DPPH radical 소거능은 아로니아 에탄올 추출물의 효과가 높게 확인되었다. B16F10 세포에서 아로니아 잎의 tyrosinase 저해활성 및 melanin 저해율의 경우, 에탄올 추출물이 100 μg/mL 농도에서 21%, 24%의 저해 효과가 확인되었으며, 열수 추출 물은 18%, 18%의 저해 효과가 확인되었다. α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) 유도에 의한 tyrosinase 저해활성 및 melanin 저해율도 아로니아 에탄올 추출물의 효과가 더 높게 확인되었다. 아로니아 잎의 항염증 효과는 에탄올 추출물의 NO 생성 억제능이 더 우수하였다. 아로나이 잎 에탄올, 열수 추출물의 200 μg/mL 농도에서 각각 58%, 41%의 procollagen 합성이 증가하여 양성대조군 보다는 낮은 procollagen 합성이 확인 되었지만 HDF 세포에서 procollagen 합성을 증가시킴으로써 주름개선 효과를 가 지는 것을 확인 할 수 있었다. 결론: 이상의 결과를 통해 아로니아 잎은 에탄올 추출물이 열수 추출물 보다 항산화, 미백 그리고 항 염증 및 collagen 합성 효과가 더 우수하였으며, 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 활용 가능하리라고 생각된다.

중국어

目的: 探索黑果腺肋花揪叶提取物用作化妆品原料的可行性，并测定其抗氧化剂，美白，抗炎和胶原合成作 用。方法: 使用黑果腺肋花揪叶的乙醇和热水提取物作为测试样品，测定其提取物的总多酚和类黄酮含量。使 用1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl（DPPH）自由基清除测定法测量其提取物的抗氧化活性。在小鼠黑素瘤细 胞系B16F10中，测量其提取物的美白作用。使用lipopolysaccharide（LPS）刺激的RAW264.7小鼠巨噬细 胞测量其提取物的nitric oxide（NO）抑制生成作用。利用ELISA kit在人皮肤成纤维细胞（human dermal fibroblasts，HDF）中测量其提取物的原胶原蛋白合成量。结果: 黑果腺肋花揪叶乙醇和热水叶提取物的总 多酚含量分别为167.46±1.03 μg/mL 和79.04±1.01 μg/mL，总类黄酮含量分别为105.15±1.22 μg/mL和 52.21±1.13 μg/mL。乙醇提取物的DPPH自由基清除作用高于热水提取物。在小鼠黑色素瘤细胞系B16F10 中，酪氨酸酶抑制活性和黑色素抑制率结果显示：使用100 μg/mL乙醇提取物时，分别为21％和24％；使用 100 μg/mL热水提取物时，分别为18％和18％。α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone（α-MSH）诱导的酪氨 酸酶抑制活性和黑素抑制在乙醇提取物中比在热水提取物中高。其提取物的抗炎作用结果显示，乙醇提取物的 NO抑制作用高于热水提取物。黑果腺肋花揪叶乙醇和热水叶提取物在浓度为200 μg/mL时，其原胶原蛋白合 成量分别增加58％和41％。虽然其增加量低与阳性对照组，但在HDF细胞中增加了原胶原蛋白的合成，从而确 认了其皱纹改善效果。结论: 通过以上的结果，黑果腺肋花揪叶的乙醇提取物比热水提取物在抗氧化、美白、 抗炎、胶原合成等效果方面更为优秀，因此作为功能性化妆品原料充分具有可行性。