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영어

People's costumes have been developed in various types with the change of the times. Unlike common types of clothes, monks' costumes have particularly shown both universality as a cultural pattern of the times and places, and peculiarity reflecting the Buddhist values. In this regard, monks' method of wear has a lot of religious significance. One of the most typical Buddhist costumes is Kasa(袈裟). Kasa is a type of Sari, Indians' traditional clothes which reflects India's cultural and regional features. Kasa was designed to distinguish heretical practicers and seculars from Buddhist practicers at that time. Kasa holds the meaning of restraining greed and carrying a poor but honest life. It also has the symbolism of the nature of Buddha and the rice-field that produces a fortunecrop(福田). When the Indian Buddhism was introduced to China, the Buddhist costume Kasa was designed in various types of monk wear to meet the nature, climate and Buddhist practicing environment in China. In particular, the Cheong-gyu(淸規) of the Zen sect(禪宗), regulations for a monastic life, mainly contains the process and regulations of eating and wearing which were needed for a temple life where zazen is simply pursued. China's Buddhist costumes were developed to wear a canonical robe under the Sameui(三衣), the basic type of Buddhist costume because of China's cold weather. One example of these types was to put the Indian Kasa on the Sokbok(俗服). In the early years of China, Buddhist practicers wore the Pyeonsam(褊衫). There was also Hoengpi(橫被) which covered down the right shoulder exposed from the Kasa. And, a lattice type of costumes was mainly used in the Zen school and Bangpo(方袍) with wide square sleeves was put on by ordinary people. The Seonwoncheonggyu(禪苑淸規), which was compiled in the age of Song, China and well handed down the spirit of Baekzangcheonggyu(百丈淸規), showed the basic Buddhist costume of Sameui(三衣) as well as common Buddhist clothes. Usual Buddhist clothes include Pyeonsam(褊衫), Gyeop-o(裌襖), a type of lined clothes, Baesim(背心), a sleeveless short waistcoat put on a coat, and Yokgun(浴裙), a type of bath robes. Jikcheol(直裰) is one of the Simeui(深衣) forms, China's traditional costumes. In the ancient times of China, Jikcheol (直裰)was one of the typical clothes worn by people in high positions. In particular, monks in the Zen temple usually wore Jikcheol(直裰), which was made with both Pyeonsam(褊衫) and Gunja(裙子), and has been developed into the current Jangsam(長衫) of the Korean Buddhism, a long-sleeved Buddhist robe. In the Chiksubaekzangcheonggyu(勅修百丈淸規) compiled in the age of Won, China, there was a type of Pyeonsam(褊衫) similar to Sengigi(僧袛支) shown in the Buddhist Rules of Discipline and this Buddhist clothes was put on under the Sameui(三衣). There was also Yokgun(浴裙), a type of underwear. At the time, it is assumed that Jikcheol, reflecting China's climate and nature, showed some features of ordinary costumes wore in the ancient times of China. As we can see in the Cheonggyu(淸規) documents of the Chinese Zen sect, various types of Buddhist costumes had been developed harmonizing with cultural and climate features of the times. In the religious, social and cultural aspects, monks' costumes represent the religious truth and symbolism. And, monks' costumes also play a model role of human and celestial worlds(人天) by presenting a model Buddhist monk with dignity.

한국어

漢譯律藏에 나타난 袈裟의 意味와 種類에 및 宋代의 대표적 청규서인 『禪苑淸規』와 元代의 청규서인『勅修百丈淸規』에 나타난 승가복식의 형태와 용도에 대해서 살펴보았다. 출가 수행자들이 착복하는 의복에 대한 일반적 명칭은 色과 모양이 法(律藏)에 따라 만들어졌다는 의미에서 如法衣인 三衣와 생활환경의 변화와 편리함에 따라 만들어진 助身衣와 深衣로 구분한다. 이러한 승가복식의 다양성은 풍토․기후․생활환경의 변화에 따라 나타나게 된 것으로 볼 수 있다. 율장과 청규에 나타난 승가복식은 문화적 차이와 생활환경 그리고 기후에 따라 출가 수행자들이 着服하는 형태나 모양에 있어서는 조금 차이가 나타나지만, 승가복식이 지닌 의미는 동일하다고 볼 수 있다. 첫째, 청정한 위의를 나타내며 둘째, 외도나 재가불자와 구분하기 위해서 셋째, 의복에 대한 욕심을 없애어 수행에 지장이 없도록 하기 위해 넷째, 추위나 더위로부터 몸을 보호하고 치부를 가려 懺愧心을 없애기 위해 다섯째, 소욕지족과 무소유의 공덕을 상징하는 것으로 불법의 근본을 드러내는 포교의 수단으로서의 의미를 지닌다.