earticle

영어

In the apparel industry, custom-made production, which had been neglected due to remarkably lower efficiency of production than that of mass production, has become increasingly practical by virtue of combination with new high-tech automation technology and IT technology in recent years. In this context, the present study was attempted to develop a body shape alteration rules and an algorithm of pattern alteration in order to realize the automation of baseball uniform patterns customized according to body shapes. The results of the study are summarized as follows:1. As the first step for covering the sizes customized according to body shapes, standard reference sized patterns were designed and selected. For standard reference sized specifications, eleven (11) sizes for jerseys/jackets and thirteen (13) sizes for pants were developed. 2. To extract body shape alteration elements, a factor analysis was performed with the design parameters of baseball uniform. Four body shape alteration elements for each of jerseys/jackets and pants were extracted. In consideration for wearing method and design among the body shape alteration elements extracted, volumetric size and the degree of abdominal protrusion (Factor 1), and height size (Factor 3) for jerseys/jackets and volumetric size (Factor 1), and height size (Factor 2) and difference in crotch length (Factor 3) for pants were chosen as the regions of pattern transformation. 3. In the case of the body shape alteration rules for jerseys/jackets, volumetric size as Factor 1 was applied to sizing for standard reference patterns, while for the degree of abdominal protrusion, the difference from standard reference patterns was applied to pattern transformation. For height size as Factor 3, the difference in body height from standard reference patterns was applied to pattern alteration so that it could be proportionally suited by pattern intervals. 4. In the case of the body shape alteration rules for pants, volumetric size as Factor 1 was applied to sizing for standard reference patterns, and for height size as Factor 2, the difference in body height from standard reference patterns was applied to pattern alteration so that it could be proportionally suited by pattern intervals. As Factor 3, difference in crotch length was applied to pattern alteration using multiple regression analysis with body height and waist circumference(omphalion) as independent variables. 5. Based upon the above-mentioned results, standard reference sized patterns were selected as patterns exploring variables, and sizes with differences from standard reference sizes were adapted to pattern alteration through a body shape alteration rule, followed by developing an automation algorithm of custom patterns for baseball uniforms customized according to individual body shapes.

한국어

의류산업에서 대량생산에 비해 낮은 생산 효율로 인해 외면당했던 맞춤 생산이 새로운 첨단 자동화 기술과 IT 기술이 접목되면서 점차 실현 가능해지고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 소량으로 맞춤생산 되고 있는 야구복의 체형맞춤형 패턴자동화를 실현하기 위하여 체형변형룰과 패턴변형 알고리즘을 개발하였다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 체형맞춤의 사이즈를 커버하기 위한 첫 단계로 기준사이즈 패턴의 설계 및 선택을 위한 기준 사이즈 스펙으로 상의는 11개사이즈, 하의는 13개사이즈를 개발 하였다. 2. 체형변형요소를 추출하기 위해 야구복의 설계항목으로 요인분석을 실시하여 상의와 하의 각 4개의 체형변형요소가 추출되었다. 체형변형요소 중 착용방법과 디자인을 고려하여, 상의는 부피크기와 배돌출 정도(1요인)와 높이크기(3요인)를, 하의는 부피크기(1요인)와 높이크기(2요인), 밑위길이의 차이(3요인)를 패턴변형부위로 선정하였다. 3. 상의의 체형변형룰은 1요인인 부피크기요인은 기준패턴의 사이즈 선정에 적용하고 배돌출 정도는 기준패턴과의 차를 패턴 변형에 적용하였다. 3요인인 높이크기는 기준패턴과의 키 차를 패턴구간별로 비례에 맞도록 패턴 변형에 적용하였다. 4. 하의의 체형변형룰은 1요인인 부피크기는 기준패턴의 사이즈 선정에 적용하고 2요인인 높이크기는 기준패턴과의 키 차를 패턴구간별로 비례에 맞도록 적용하였다. 3요인인 밑위길이의 차이는 키와 배꼽수준허리둘레를 독립변수로 다중회귀식을 이용하여 패턴 변형에 적용하였다. 5. 이상과 같이 개발된 결과를 바탕으로 패턴탐색변수로 기준 사이즈패턴을 선정하고 기준사이즈와의 차이 치수를 체형변형룰에 의해 패턴변형을 실시하여 최종 개인의 체형맞춤형 야구복 패턴자동화가 가능한 체형맞춤형 알고리즘을 개발하였다.