earticle

영어

The purpose of this study was to examine Koryo women’s hairstyle reproduced in visual media and to explain the importance of historical investigation and the reproduction of hairstyle, which should be changed according to age. For this study, we analyzed three historical dramas with the early, mid and late periods of the Koryo Dynasty as their background, investigated hairstyle in the Koryo Dynasty using old literature, Buddhist paintings from the Koryo Dynasty, figure paintings on walls, and relics, and collected data related to visual media using photographs on the Internet. According to the results of this study, the hairstyle in drama ‘Queen Cheonchu’ with the early Koryo Dynasty as its background should have reproduced Gogye, the hairstyle in the Shilla Dynasty because, during its early period, Koryo established all its systems based on those from Shilla. However, the hairstyle in Queen Cheonchu seems to have reproduced the hairstyle in the late Koryo Dynasty rather than that in its early period. Court ladies in drama ‘The Age of Warriors’ with the mid Koryo Dynasty as its background show hairstyle quite similar to the style of the women in Munhigwihwando. According to Koryodogyeong (1123) written during the reign of the 17th King Injong, which is the same period as the Age of Warriors, gisaengs’ hairstyle was called Chumagye. The hairstyle of gisaengs appearing in The Age of Warriors also reproduced Chumagye well. In movie ‘Ssanghwajeom’ with the late Koryo Dynasty as its background reproduced Princess Noguk, who was King Gongmin’s wife, and her hairstyle was similar to that of Princess Noguk in her portrait. However, while the hairstyle in the queen’s lady attendants in Gwangyeongseobunbyeonsangdo painted in the late Koryo Dynasty was tied up, the hairstyle of court ladies in the movie is similar to that of the noble woman in Gwangyeongbonbunbyeonsangdo. According to relics from the late Koryo Dynasty, court ladies’ hairstyle is believed to be closer to Gogye.

한국어

이 연구는 영상매체에 재현되어진 고려여인의 수발양식을 살펴보기 위해 고려시대의 전기, 중기 그리고 후기를 배경으로 한 세편의 사극을 선정하여 분석하였다. 고려시대의 수발양식은 고문헌, 고려불화, 벽화인물도 그리고 유물 등을 중심으로 살펴보았고 영상매체에 관련된 자료는 인터넷 검색을 통해 사진 자료를 수집하여 비교하였다. 연구결과 고려 초를 배경으로 한 천추태후의 수발양식은 오히려 고려 초의 고계보다는 고려말의 수발양식을 재현한듯하다. 고려 중기를 배경으로 한 무인시대의 상궁의 수발양식은 문희귀환도의 여인의 머리장식과 매우 흡사하며 기녀의 수발양식도 고려도경(1123)에 묘사되어진 기녀의 머리형태인 추마계로 잘 재현해 놓았다. 고려 말을 배경으로 한 쌍화점은 노국공주의 모습을 유사하게 재현하였다. 그러나 왕실시녀의 수발양식은 고려 말에 그려진 관경서분변상도에 의하면 고계형태에 더 가까울 것으로 생각되어진다.