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영어

This study explores wedding costume worn during the end of Joseon period, focused on the reigns of King Gojong and Sunjong. It was the chaotic time when the traditional culture of Joseon and new ideology and civilization of the West collided. Thus, it was natural that the wedding custom of the time displayed combination of the traditional and new western styles Traditional wedding custom was influenced by the royal culture. The wedding procedure basically followed the Confucian rites and was classified into six, four, and three phases according to the social status. Moreover, if ceremonies before and after the wedding were included, the overall procedure became even more complex. Although differences between royal and civil wedding procedures existed, the two had something in common. First, a coming-of-age ceremony was included in both wedding procedures. Second, jeonan-lye (奠雁禮a procedure the groom presents the wild goose to the bride's mother as a pledge) and hyeon-gu-go-lye (見舅姑禮the first meeting of the bride with her parents-in-law) were regarded as essential ceremonies for the both royal and civil wedding ceremonies. Traditional wedding costume was originated from the royal ceremonial dresses. Because for the wedding ceremony the commoners deserved to wear prince's and princess' wedding costume regardless of their status. Many people rented the costumefrom semuljeon (貰物廛a store that lent wedding costume and articles). For the royal wedding the groom must wear bokddu ( 頭) on his head and red coat called dallyeong (團領). To imitate the royal wedding costume, an ordinary groom wore the same red dallyeong (團領) as the royal one did but with a different headdress called samo (紗帽). During the Korean Empire, black or blue dallyeong (團領) replaced the red one. Such changes originated in those of men's official robes as time went by. Bride wore a big wig called gache (加) on her head and splendid red robe called hongjangsam (紅長衫) or hwarot <花衣> for the wedding ceremony. When the bride greeted to her parents-in-law after the wedding, she wore jokduri (簇頭里) on her head and a green robe called wonsam (圓衫). It was the old principle abided by for a long time. In the later period. however, jokduri (簇頭里) and green wonsam (圓衫) also could be worn for the actual wedding ceremony. Some brides wore a kind of coronet called hwagwan (花冠) in stead of gache (加) in order to save money. As the western civilization was introduced, the conventional wedding custom of Joseon period began to change. In the big cities, such as Seoul, following the traditional wedding ceremony and wearing traditional costume were considered to be old-fashioned. On the other hand, it was a new fashion to get married in the public place or to dress up with the western style wedding costume. However, the overall wedding procedure was not quite different from that of traditional style even after the ceremony became new-fashioned. For example, the fact that hyeon-gu-go-lye (見舅姑禮) was still performed after the new-style wedding and that the bride and groom wore traditional costumes during this time illustrated the mixed style of new and old wedding ceremonies during the Korean Empire